Serves 6
Notes
When I was growing up, we always had a slab of bacon or pancetta hanging in the cantina, and even in my early years in the United States, there was always some in the refrigerator. A little piece in soup or a pasta sauce added a lot of flavor and went a long way.
Take your time making this sauce. The caramelization of the onions is key and will add a layer of complexity to the dish. Let them turn a deep golden brown. Let the bacon crisp. The few extra minutes of attention will add to the flavor tenfold. The briny olives complement these other two flavors beautifully.
Ingredients
- Kosher salt
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 ounces slab bacon, cut into lardons
- 2 large onions, sliced (about 4 cups)
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
- 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1/2 cup pitted Gaeta olives, coarsely chopped
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1 pound fettucine
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
- 1/2 cup freshly grated Grana Padano
Directions
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil and bacon.
Cook until the bacon is just crisp, about 4 minutes. Spoon off all but 1/4 cup fat from the pan, and add the onions. Season with 1 teaspoon salt, and reduce the heat to medium low. Cook until the onions are wilted, about 10 minutes. Add the thyme and vinegar, and continue to cook until the onions are deep golden, stirring often so they don’t burn, 10 to 15 minutes more.
Increase the heat to medium. Make a space in the pan, and add the tomato paste to that spot. Cook and stir the tomato paste there for a minute, until it darkens a shade or two. Add the olives, and stir everything together. Add the white wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 11/2 cups pasta water, and simmer it while you cook the pasta.
Add the pasta to the boiling water. When it is al dente, remove the pasta with tongs directly to the sauce. Add the parsley, bring to a simmer, and toss to coat the pasta in the sauce, adding a little pasta water if it seems dry. Season with salt if needed. Remove the skillet from the heat, and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Toss, and serve.
