3 Quarts, Serving 8
Notes
Everyone makes this classic soup a little different, according to preference. I like my risi e bisi rather brothy while others make theirs quite dense. This is controlled by the intensity of the boil, using an open or covered pot, and cooking time, all of which determine the rate of evaporation. (I cook my soup covered, at a slow boil.)
Either long or short grain rice can be used here. Traditionally, the soup was made with short grain carnaroli or arborio rice and I still think it gives the most authentic flavor and texture. It cooks faster, too, but if you need to cook the soup longer or reheat it, the rice tends to dissolve. Long grain rice, on the other hand, stays more intact in a long cooking or reheated soup. But as it does not release starch like short grain rices, the soup will be thinner.
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for serving
- 1/4 pound bacon (about 4 thick-cut strips) cut crosswise in 1/3-inch pieces
- 2 cups diced leek, in ½-inch pieces (about 6 ounces)
- 3 quarts water
- 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt or to taste
- 1 pound frozen peas (or 3 cups fresh peas, shucked)
- ¾ to 1 cup rice (short- or long-grain)
- 4 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano for serving
Directions
Pour the olive oil in the heavy pot and set over medium heat. Stir in the bacon pieces and cook for several minutes to render the fat. When the bacon starts to crisp, stir in the leeks (and fresh peas, if using). Cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks are wilted and the bacon is caramelized, about 6 minutes.
Meanwhile heat 3 quarts water to a simmer. Pour into the pot with the onions and bacon, add the tablespoon salt, and stir well. Rapidly bring to a boil, then adjust the heat to maintain active bubbling and cook for an hour or longer to build flavor in the soup base. Cook covered or uncovered to reduce the soup rapidly or slowly to a consistency you prefer.
Stir in the frozen peas, return the soup to a bubbling simmer and cook for 20 minutes before adding the rice. (If fresh peas are already cooking in the pot, stir in the rice after the hour or so of cooking when the volume has reduced.) Use ¾ cup rice for a looser soup or a full cup of rice for a denser one. Return the soup to the active simmer, taste and stir in ½ teaspoon or more salt—remember that more rice needs more seasoning.
Cook the rice for 10 minutes or so, stirring occasionally, until the grains are cooked through but not mushy. Turn off the heat, stir in the parsley and grated cheese; season the soup with lots of freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately, passing more cheese and olive oil at the table.
