Tuna, Capers and Warm Potato Salad

Insalata di Capperi e Tonno

Pantelleria is an island half way between Sicily and the northern shore of Africa. It is an arid island but what grows there is intense in flavor. Some of the best Italian passito wines–those made from grapes that are partially dried on the vine and sometimes further dried on straw mats in the cantina– such as bukkharam by Marco de Bortoli come from there. The capers of Pantelleria are the absolute best.

Capers are the aromatic white pink flowers of Copparis spinosa–a trailing prickly plant that grows on walls and stones. In springtime, the unopened buds of these flowers are picked and preserved by either pickling them in brine or salting them. The smaller the bud the more intense the flavor and the more precious the merchandise. Capers have been used to season food in the Mediterranean basin from antiquity.

Serves 6

3 medium Idaho potatoes
2 medium-size ripe tomatoes, cored, halved and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1/2 medium-size red onion, sliced thin
6 basil leaves, washed and shredded thin
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
One 6-ounce can tuna packed in olive oil
1/2 cup small (nonpareil) capers in brine (preferably from Pantelleria), drained

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Bake the potatoes directly on the oven rack until very tender when pierced with a knife, about 40 minutes. Remove and let stand just until cool enough to handle.

In a mixing bowl, stir together the tomatoes, onion, basil, oil and vinegar until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1/2-inch-thick slices. In a mixing bowl, toss the potatoes and tuna with its oil. Add capers and tomato basil dressing. Toss well, adjust the seasoning and serve.